The humble white t-shirt is possibly the quintessential, stable basic apparel piece that is easily complemented with a range of clothing pieces. It also makes a perfect screen printing blank canvas.
With so many brands and different fits it can be a challenge to find a blank white t-shirt that not only prints well but is durable and comfortable to wear.
What makes the white t-shirt still a popular fashion choice?
From its use in military branches, such as the US Marines dress and service uniforms, to being worn by classic Hollywood era icons Marlon Brando and James Dean, the blank white t-shirt has been a staple and versatile fashion item throughout the years.
Finding a quality white t-shirt can be a challenge with so many cheap options on offer at major retailers. This article will explain what to look for in a white t-shirt.
James Dean
wearing a blank white t-shirt
Below are the top 5 tips for finding a high quality blank white t-shirt:
1. Look at the the t-shirt fabric
A quality white t-shirt should have a fabric weight that is comfortable to wear and will give repeated use. The first tell-tale sign of a well-made t-shirt is its ability to maintain its original shape and textured feel. T-shirt fabric weight in Australia is meanders in grams per square meter (GSM) weight (metric system). In the US it is measured using ounces. Generally speaking, the lower the GSM fabric weight, the lighter a t-shirt will feel. The standard GSM weight commonly found in quality blank white t-shirts is in the range from 180 GSM to 200 GSM. Cheaper, bulk t-shirts are much lower in GSM and generally sit in the 120 GSM or lower range.
Why is a higher GSM in a blank white t-shirt is preferred?
White when worn can be see through. Having a lower GSM and lower thread count makes white even more transparent. A well-made blank white t-shirt should prevent any see through.
Thread count, also known as singles, is the size of the individual threads. The higher the number the finer the thread and tighter the weave. The lower the number the loser the thread. We find that 22 singles in the 180 GSM to 200 GSM range complements white t-shirts very well.
A white t-shirt construction needs to be symmetrical
A quality white t-shirt that is either used for street wear or as an undershirt should have a great fit that sits on the arms and shoulders nicely. A classic white t-shirt traditionally has no pocket and is all white in colour (including its stitching). The cotton fabric used shouldn’t stretch and be true to size – even after machine washing.
How many of us have machine washed a new t-shirt to find the size and shape has completely changed? While 5% cotton shrinkage after washing is common, a quality white t-shirt should not exceed this and keep its shape in length and circular shape in the collar. Quality white t-shirts that avoid excessive shrinkage are pre-shrunk in the early manufacturing stage before stitching and sewing processes begin.
A quality white t-shirt should also be resistant to pulls, tears and holes. A higher GSM will add durability and will greatly resist this from happening (another reason why we recommend 180 to 200 GSM for blank white t-shirts).
Fabric type
If the t-shirt label mentions blends with polyester or synthetic fibres do not purchase. You should only want to see 100% cotton and for an even better fabric feel the cotton used should be organic. T-shirts that are made to GOTS or OEKO-TEX (industry organic standards) are a sign of quality organic cotton and represent a t-shirt that his been made using environmentally friendly manufacturing practices.
2. Inspect the stitching
Modern manufacturing techniques have improved over the past few decades. Leaning manufactures now have the ability to mass produce apparel that has quality stitching that is consistently even, straight and true to size. The ability for t-shirt manufacturers to output mass production of t-shirts with quality stitching is dependent on the stitching techniques they employ and the machines they use.
Unfortunately, some manufactures will take shortcuts to reduce production costs and use low grade cotton for the t-shirt’s stitching stage. This is usually made worse if the manufacture haven’t service their sewing machines which cause jagged, misaligned stitching and hems.
Tip: Look at the collar and hems for the quality of the stitching – strength, elasticity, durability, security, and comfort. The stitched lines should be straight and contain a double stitch finish. A t-shirt seam should have no fabric damage during sewing.
Inspect the quality of the stitching and the technique used and verify the overall shape and how the collar, shoulders and hem all come together. Check to see the stitches are the same on both sides of the t-shirt and that none have been skipped leaving obvious gaps. Ensure that there are no tangles and the same cotton material is used for a uniform stitch across the entire t-shirt. Seam puckering is a common sign of a poorly made t-shirt where there is waviness of the fabric along the seam line.
Below are examples of a quality stitching on a white t-shirt. Note the symmetrical and even spacing of the stitching found on this blank white t-shirt:
3. Check if it can be used for screen printing / customisation?
One way that manufacturers save money is by using as little fabric as possible. If you notice that the chest area is not as large as others standard sizes in the same range, chances are the manufacturer was looking to save costs. A quality blank white t-shirt should have a smooth and soft surface on the front and back that can take a range of custom decorative techniques including screen printing, HTV printing, heat transfer vinyl and embroidery.
4. Ensure it keeps its shape after washing
From the way the collar comes together with the shoulders, to the t-shirt length and side hems, to the brightness of the whiteness and the smoothness of the cotton fabric – details matter in quality blank white t-shirts.
Each of these small details often have the main effect when it comes to how you look in a blank white t-shirt. Misshaped elastic collars that puck are a hallmark of a cheap white t-shirt. Poor quality cotton fabric can shrink, and even tears can happen from machine washing. Small details are usually what the cheaper t-shirts skip in quality.
5. The collar should be smooth and have strong elastic
Same with the fabric material and stitching, the collar will have a much better fit on high quality blank white t-shirt. The collar should not bunch or stretch out of shape from regular use or machine washing. A quality blank white t-shirt should have double stitching with a quality elastic material that complements the neck (not too tight or loose). Poor quality collars usually become out of shape or bunch together giving a poor look and uncomfortable feel.
Conclusion
So the next time you are looking for a quality blank t-shirt that is comfortable to wear or designed to be printed on make sure you pay attention to the t-shirt’s fabric and how the stitching supports its shape and fit.
Check out our The top 5 steps for selecting blank t-shirts for screen printing article for those interested in finding quality blank t-shirts to print on.